Terra Rosa 2006

Argentina Malbec. Big fan of this variant - almost always a forwardly fruity and hedonistic experience w Argentine Malbecs and this specimen is no exception. Blackcurrant notes diffuses generously from the glass upon pouring, not much swirling, air or coaxing required. Enjoyable from the onset. V smooth entry. Tannic backbone is there but not overwhelming. Acids in check. Plenty of black fruits and liquorice. Heavy and dense. An enjoyable, measured finish at the end. Label says 'from old vines' and this may well have contributed to the polish. Well made and excellent QPR (8.3/10). (Picked this and another bottle up from a lineup of >50 wines on tasting and sale).

Montrose 1997

St Estephe 2GCC. A supposedly diluted vintage in Bordeaux, but boy did the oenologist overcome the odds w great winemaking. Light orange brick colour indicative of age. Silky entry that builds up into a surprisingly powerful mid-palate. Substantial, assertive and weighty, but all in a classy sort of way. Traditional style w touch of austerity. Still v tannic w lots of life left in it. V fine tannins, almost powdery sendiments. Even after more than a decade of bottle age, still v forceful and impressive. Indeed the 'Latour of St Estephe' (9.0/10).

Montessu 2006

Italy. Started off ordinary enough, but after 30 mins in the glass, develops into an impressive drink. Rounded, full bodied and intense blackcurrants dancing on the palate, an extremely well-made wine. An excellent dinner wine and showing some class and polish (8.0/10)

Aramis 2006

Australia Cab Sauv. Upon uncorking, immediately and eagerly releases an attractive bouquet of intense blackcurrants, v promising start. Smooth upon entry and rounded. Fruit is abundant. V good impression until that point, then an acidity imbalance abruptly kicks in at the last third of the palate. V strong acid killing off the impressive nose, entry and mid-palate. Pity. But still definitely a good dinner wine (7.5/10)

Branaire Ducru 2002

St Julien 4GCC. Nothing much happening here, should have decanted for a few hours. V closed nose, just a whiff of oak and cabernet. Swirling does not yield much more. On the palate slightly better, tannins are smooth and acid in check, but still struggling to find the fruit. Based on the good reviews for this wine, it might just be in a dumb phase at this moment. However, polished tannins and silky mouthfeel is promising (7.6/10).

du Carpis 2007

Bordeaux AOC. Always wary when I see grape varieties being listed on a French bottle - blatant departure from Bordeaux labelling norms and almost always a certain sign that this is catered to non-discerning drinkers who "just want something French". Spot on this time. Sour, watery and acidity all crazily out of balance. To me this is barely wine (5.0/10). Oz Clarke commented that top Bordeaux can be the world's most powerful and seductive wines yet there are hundreds of chateaux riding on the Bordeaux brand name and churning out amazingly mediocre and overpriced wines. A case in point.

Monbousquet 2001

St Emilion GCC (since '06 - before, GC). Before we lose the plot w too many New World reviews, let's get back to our old favs. Nose is a bit shy but just open enough not to be austere - restrained fruit and oak. Palate, on the other hand, is a powerhouse. Assertive attack w very intense dark fruits, bursting into firework of flavours - berries, floral, scorched earth, everything! V intense and pure elements inter-playing, builds up onto a towering mid-palate. Just when it was about to get too jammy, it pulls back beautifully w some discreet spice and lushness. Satisfying long finish. Been a while since I'm this won over by a wine, it must be Bordeaux (9.2/10). Beg to differ from critics of G Perse that his wines are too modern, too extracted - there're still Old World complexity and class to be found in this wine. Definitely not just a brash fruit bomb.